May 2017 東日本 南北海道之旅 Day13-14 無敵家 明治神宮 鳥良 六本木展望台 輕井澤 ◢East-South Hokkaido Trip Day13-14 Mutekiya/Meiji Shrine/Toriyoshi/Tokyo City View/Karuizawa
13/5 午 無敵家 Mutekiya
13/5 午 明治神宮 Meiji Shrine
13/5 午 原宿 Harajuku
13/5 晚 鳥良 Toriyoshi
13/5 晚 鳥良 Toriyoshi
14/5 晚 六本木新城展望台 Tokyo Sky View
14/5 早 輕井澤 Karuizawa
住宿:東京KKR酒店 KKR Hotel Tokyo
早上遊覽皇居東御苑,就開展東京都心西邊的一日旅程:澀谷、新宿、原宿、池袋。時間許可的話,實在沒必要把這些地方都塞進同一天。澀谷這次純粹是到此一遊,看一下聞名的澀谷交叉路口,隨便逛逛附近的商場。2019年有新建成的SCRAMBLE SQUARE,頂樓有觀景花園,但聽說人超多也不接受現場購票。深度遊可以再走進西北方的奧澀谷和東北面的貓街,一直連結到原宿,這樣就夠逛一個下午了。
◢After the morning visit to Kōkyo East Garden, I started my day journey in the west side of Central Tokyo - Shibuya, Shinjuku, Harajuku and Ikebukuro. If time is allowed, there is actually no reason in putting all these places into a single day. For Shibuya, I just made a visit to the famous scramble road called Shibuya Crossing and nearby shopping malls. A new building Scramble Square was opened in 2019 with rooftop garden and horrible crowd. For a in-depth travel, you may also go to Okusibu in the north-west and Cat Street in the north-west of Shibuya.
麵創房無敵家只此池袋一家,到了下午3時依然大排長龍!一如以往,排隊可以先點餐,菜單有繁體中文相當好,前後大概等30分鐘就能入座。最受歡迎的招牌拉麵1,100円(2020年:1,200円),名店來說價錢算便宜吧,普通拉麵店都600-800了,反觀在香港垃圾拉麵都能賣到港幣100元。可加的配菜很多款,然而湯底濃加上叉燒厚,普通一碗就夠撐飽肚子,當然加大麵量也是免費的。叉燒的厚度從照片就能看到,重點是肉質跟脂肪比例!據菜單上的介紹,無敵家的叉燒都是經過燉煮,配合肥肉一起吃(對會有點膩),非常柔嫩,差不多是入口即溶(好像太誇張了)。在日本麵質一般都合格以上,這裡記憶中也是如此。
◢The one and only one ramen restaurant Muteki-ya is located at Ikebukuro. There was still a long queue by 3p.m.. Pre-order can be done while queuing, with several kinds of languages available on its menu. The signature ramen costed 1,100 yen (2020: 1,200 yen) which is reasonable for a popular restaurant in Japan. In comparison, many "rubbish" ramen in Hong Kong can easily cost HK$100 or above. From description on the menu, those thick-sliced pork fillet are stewed before roasted. Thus the pork tasted so soft and delicious.
從原宿站西口出來,就會看到明治神宮的入口,著色古典沉實的鳥居就在不遠處。明治神宮位置便利,且鄰近原宿及新宿商圈,人群相當密集。幸好神宮占地70公頃,人流可分散到各區域。走到南參道盡頭,會看到左右兩旁的打卡聖地。這些乍看像燈籠的清酒酒桶極受歡迎,幾乎只能找到半秒拍下無人的畫面,而另一邊則有葡萄酒酒桶,兩者均是奉獻神明飲用。神宮範圍人流熙來攘往,卻無損心中恬靜,既可走一圈放鬆心靈,也可坐在長椅下小休一番。正殿所在的手水舍附近有數棵修剪成球體般的大樹,相當可愛。仔細一看,維修中的正殿屋頂是一幅畫,毫無違和感。
◢Coming out from the west exit of Harajuku, the entrance of Meiji Shrine was right in front of my eyes. The wooden torii looked subdued yet dignified. The crowd around Harajuku and Shinjuku business district kept Meiji Shrine a busy sightseeing spot. At the end of south sandō, the check-in spot was stuck with "models" and "photographers". The lantern-like sake barrels were beautifully put in order, ready for dedication to the gods.
原宿竹下口出口正對著擠滿人潮的竹下通,這裡路窄所以比上野阿美橫町更恐怖,小編不太喜歡這裡所以不多作介紹,建議入口拍張照就繞路吧。晚上回到新宿,逛一逛歌舞伎町,再去大黑屋買六本木展望台門票。類似大黑屋的還有Get Ticket,這種金券店可以買到各種觀光門票及演唱會票,小編沒去詳細了解運作方式,但據評價及分店規模,可信程度極高,值得去尋寶。原價1500的展望台門票,小編900就買到,據說還可以找到更便宜的,有需要可自行權衡時間跟成本。
◢Back to Harajuku, Takeshita was stuck with crowd, even more terrible than Ameyoko at Ueno. At night, I made a visit to Kabukicho and Daikokuya at Shinjuku. Daikokuya offers a wide variety of products at exceptional prices. My target was only the entrance ticket for Tokyo City View. I got my ticket with 900 yen which officially costed 1,500. This kind of "golden-ticket" store is sizable and trustworthy, yet I still cannot get its business model with such friendly selling prices.
去展望台前先吃點東西,走過去鳥良西新宿店,店面積很大所以沒等多久就能入座。鳥良在東京分店頗多,池袋、新宿、表參道、上野、秋葉原等都有,是一家中價位又寬敞的居酒屋。入座前可先放背包袋子在保險櫃,不得不說店內裝潢、燈光跟設計都很舒適,尤其全都是木製。鳥良最有名的就是唐揚雞翼跟手工冷豆腐,這次就點了中辛雞翼和大吟釀豆腐。雞翼不是全翼,少了雞鎚肉部份一人吃5只剛剛好,吃起來也比較不會狼狽(全翼要用手掰開不然超麻煩的),用了自家醬油及香料整只都很香口(等等,到底哪家日本餐廳不是標榜自家醬油?)。至於豆腐,我猜是那塊白布沾了大吟釀吧,反正不太吃得出酒味,豆腐也沒多幼滑。這道菜主要是冰冰涼涼很適合夏天解暑,配上蔥花或鹽的豆腐吃法也算嶄新。
◢I got to fill my stomach at Toriyoshi before heading to City View. The store at Nishi-shinjuku was huge so I did not wait long before I safekept my backpack and ordered. The wooden design got into my good graces. I ordered the famous chicken wings with medium spicy and cold Daiginjo tofu. The chicken wings were crispy and tasted good with special soy sauce, while the tofu was perfect for summer yet the taste was not as amazing as expected.
看圖也看得出來,趕往六本木展望台超急的,當晚大概是10點最後入場,最近須自行留意官網的特別安排。從日比谷線六本木站1C出口沿平台走3分鐘就可到達,室內展望台在52樓,可通往53樓的森美術館,加500円可上到頂樓景觀更好的室外展望台。留在展望台的人已經是最後一批,人超少隨便拍,這裡鏡面反光還可以接受,能拍出較清晰的全夜景,金光閃閃的東京鐵塔非常顯眼。相較於熱鬧的日間,小編更喜歡夜闌人靜的燈火,看來要買能拍好夜景的相機了(重點是需要技術好不好)。
◢Tokyo City View is located near a few stations, but the closest is the 3-minute walk from Tokyo Metro Hibiya Line "Roppongi Station" Exit 1C. The indoor observation deck on 52/F is linked the Mori Art Museum on 53/F. An extra 500 yen paid on site would allow you to visit the rooftop sky deck with a better view. I would likely come here again next time as the vision towards Tokyo Tower and the city is clear.
最後一個在東日本的晚上雖然依依不捨,但太累的關係睡得像豬一樣。睡醒就準備最後的購物旅程——輕井澤。乘坐北陸新幹線往輕井澤只需1小時,很適合半日或一日遊,但持有周遊券會比較划算,因為來回車票超貴的。有時間的話,可到站內拿一份散策照著走,小編往北口出發,約1小時半來回銀座通及禮拜堂附近步道。沿路都是小河民居小店,非常清幽,只是似雨又似霧的天氣即使開傘也全身濕透。回到車站南邊就是王子購物廣場,中間有一個很美的湖被雨霧籠罩,附近都是草地,跟一座座的購物城差異很大,在附近購物超舒服的。
◢My last stop was Karuizawa, a 1-hour-shinkansen suburban area from Tokyo. A JR pass is recommended since the transportation is costly. I followed the northern walking path suggested in the tour guide from information center. It took me around 1.5 hour (round journey) visiting the old shopping street and Shaw Memorial Church, all along with quiet residence and rivers. Returning to outlet, a fantastic lake surprised me under mist. You would definitely enjoy shopping here more than anywhere else.
最後來看一看各款精美的便當,小編也是在這之後才發現自己對牛敏感的QQ。另外,成田機場過關後的免稅店只有一間也太少了吧,一堆香港人在最後撕殺。
◢Here are some of the decent boxed meals.
終於寫好14天的東日本南北海道的旅程,尚記得舊同事每次經過我辦公桌都會問「怎麼你還在計劃」。每次一個人計劃整個行程的確是蠻累的,人生又何嘗不是呢,在找到旅行的意義或人生的意義前,也只能堅持下去享受過程。寫了好一陣子日本的遊記,短期內應該會寫其他國家,然後再看看要不要寫一篇14天懶人包吧。
◢Finally it comes to an end of the 14-day East Japan South Hokkaido trip blogging. Despite the tiring planning before any trip, the process and outcome are always enjoyable. There will soon be articles regarding other countries before I come back to Japan-related blog. Let's see if a 14-day trip summary will be done after then.
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